Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
